I headlined this entry “A Perfect Pairing,” thinking about the Harvest Moon oysters we had with the Borghese 2016 Sauvignon Blanc, but it could also apply to the couple we went there with—our son and daughter-in-law. We all enjoyed the oysters, which are on offer every weekend until October 1, for $28 a dozen, and the wine, which went perfectly with them. The oysters were small, but sweet and briny and creamy, and the lemon in the wine complemented them beautifully. It was a perfect July day, and we were happy to sit outside near the vines and enjoy our bottle of wine and plates of oysters. Unfortunately, they don’t do tastings outside, so we had to go in when we decided we wanted to do a tasting as well. (I also would urge the winery to install an attractive fence to screen the hose, etc., along the wall of the building.)
When we went in to examine the tasting menu, we found two options: five Estate wines for $15, or five Reserve wines for $25. We decided each couple would share one of each, so we could taste most of their wines, though we did miss a few. Our server was enthusiastic and knowledgeable, happy to share both what he knew and what he liked about each wine. The tasting room is about medium in size, with a bar along one wall and barrels with tops one can stand around on the other, so if you want to sit for a tasting this is not your place. Also, they don’t allow outside food (at least at the moment, when they are featuring the oysters). This is a winery which takes its wine very seriously, and is happy when visitors do the same. After all, the Borgheses bought the vineyard from the Hargraves, who were the first to plant a vineyard on the North Fork, back in 1973. The Estate wines are marked with an *.
- .* 2015 Chardonnay $18
A good place to begin a tasting is this steel fermented chardonnay which is so light and lemony you might mistake it for a sauvignon blanc. We smelled mineral and peach and toast aromas and one of us suggested it tasted like star fruit. Our daughter-in-law, who is thoughtful about food and wine pairings, thought it would go well with Greek food or a corn salad. We agreed.
- 2016 Founder’s Field Sauvignon Blanc $29
This is not the Sauvignon Blanc we had with our oysters—that one is cheaper and we actually liked it better. This one is fermented half in oak and half in steel. It is light and dry, with some citrus and melon tastes and a long finish. “Blue cheese,” we agreed, would go well with it.
- .*2014 Riesling $26
Not unexpectedly, this smells like flowers and cat pee. Though our server described it as “off dry,” we all found it too sweet for our taste. Our son and daughter-in-law said it tasted just like “sweet lime,” which I’ve never had, but I trust their taste buds, and thought it could pair well with watermelon juice and tequila in a margarita-type cocktail.
- 2014 Pinot Noir Select $50
We switched to the reds on the Reserve list, as there were no other whites we wanted to try and they have quite a few reds. The aroma is nice, of dark fruits, and the taste is also pleasant, with some notes of black pepper as well as plums. It reminded us a bit of a Chianti, and so we thought it would go well with pasta.
- .*Rosé Pinot Noir $20
At the urging of our server, our tasting companions sampled this rosé (we had been given a sip of another one as we were trying to choose a wine to go with our oysters). However, they were “not excited” about it. Steel fermented, this is an uncomplicated dry rosé, with a taste of macerated strawberry that, I said, “evanesces.” We then began to apply that word to all sorts of things.
- 2015 Merlot Reserve $36
We found lots of aromas in this one—spice, pomegranate, charred wood, prunes, and, believe it or not, barbequed chicken were some of our comments. So then of course we decided it would pair well with barbequed chicken, one with a fruity sauce. Nice finish.
- .*2014 Cabernet Franc $35
Good one! With aromas of prune plum and cedar, and tastes of blueberry and spice, this one got us thinking of food pairings again. We thought lamb chops, and then our daughter-in-law offered flank steak with chimichurri sauce or spiced chick peas (for vegetarians). Also good ideas.
- .*2015 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon $25
A Bordeaux-style blend of 53% merlot, 44% cabernet sauvignon, and 3% pinot noir, this is, according to our server, a very popular wine. We can see why. The aroma is earthy and herbal, with scents of chestnuts and fruit, and the taste is equally appealing, with lots of fruit, and just the right amount of dryness. Food pairing? How about spaghetti with mussels in a tomato sauce.
- 2014 Cabernet Franc Reserve $44
You can definitely smell that this was aged in oak, with its cedar/oak aroma, plus fruit, spice, and something funky like mushrooms. I decide it is mouth-watering. It has lots of flavor, with dark fruits, and would go well with duck.
- 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve $44
Our server now gets into the whole food pairing thing we’ve been doing, and suggests this would go well with “a porterhouse on the grill.” We talk it over, and once again our daughter-in-law has the perfect pairing idea—hamburger with truffle fries. One of us compares the aroma to “dusty closet.” Not sure about that. However, this is another pleasant red, with nice fruit, though not very complex.
Reasons to visit: a place to get serious about wine; oysters from Harvest moon until October 1; the winery also has an art gallery where you can view and buy local art; the Sauvignon Blanc, the Pinot Noir Select, the Cabernet Franc, the Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, the Cabernet Franc Reserve.