Greenport Harbor: What’s That Strange Glowing Orb in the Sky? February 12, 2020

https://greenportharborbrewing.com/

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We’ve never seen the parking lot this empty. And look–blue sky!

After what seemed like forty days and nights of rain, the sun made a brief appearance on Wednesday, so we took advantage of the pleasant weather to get out of the house. We took our friends to the Riverhead Aquarium, where it was actually nice enough to sit outside and watch the sea lion show and wander around to see the playful otters and penguins, as well as the other exhibits inside. We all stood mesmerized at the shark tank as those giants glided past the windows, and tried to pick out each variety of colorful fish in the coral reef tank. The butterfly room felt like a brief visit to the tropics.

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After a couple of hours, our feet were tired and our mouths were dry, so we headed to Greenport Harbor Brewing Company’s Peconic location (the original place in Greenport has limited hours in the winter, like much of the rest of the town). It was the least crowded we’ve ever seen, with only a few people in the tasting room. Usually, you have to go into the room off to the side to order food, but today the man behind the bar was filling all orders, so we ordered a giant pretzel. They actually have real food, but we were planning to go out for an early dinner, so we didn’t want to eat too much. We did, however, end up getting a second pretzel!

At the bar you are presented with a printed list of the available beers, and you simply circle your five choices, which are then handed to you in the form of small glasses set into a wooden carrier shaped like a whale/Long Island (their logo). There’s plenty of beer for two people to share. Our friend chose some of the same beers we did, but also some different ones, so we were able to try eight beers in all. Our designated driver was happy with a Boylan Black Cherry Soda (made with real cane sugar).

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Soda for the designated driver.

We took our flights to a table looking out at the yard, enjoying the sunny day.

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This room was also empty.

  1. Vapor Kisses 5% ABV (alcohol by volume)

This is described on the menu as a “smoked Helles Lager,” and indeed it does have a slight aroma and taste of smoke. It is a refreshing, post-lawn-mowing-on-a-hot-day type of beer. Light and crisp.

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The flight I chose. You drink them in order, from light to dark.

  1. Respect to Process 6%

“Unfiltered pale ale with Galaxy and Citra,” reads the menu for this one, but I think it could just as well have said “grapefruit juice,” which is what it smells and tastes like. I’m glad it was my friend’s choice rather than mine, since I don’t care for this type of beer.

  1. Far Out There Series 4 7%

I guess the “far out there” refers to the very hoppy quality of this IPA. Although I sometimes don’t like hoppy IPAs, I don’t mind this one, which just begs for a snappy hot dog accompaniment. It has some bitter lemon taste, but also warm grain taste.

  1. The Hot Sauce IPA 6%

No, the name does not refer to what you should drink this with, but what it is made with: Thai Bird chili peppers! My friend compares it to biting into a jalapeno, and opines that she would rather cook with it than drink it. For example, she continues, you could braise chicken in it and then use that to stuff enchiladas. I think it is fun to drink, and would be good with nachos that were more cheesy than spicy.

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Our friend’s choices.

  1. Otherside IPA 8%

I’ve had this before, and find it pleasantly piney, dry and crisp.

  1. OG Double Otherside 1%

As the name suggests, this is a more intense version of the Otherside IPA (whose name refers to the fact that the hops come from the West Coast). I taste grapefruit pith as well as pine. Preferences are so personal—My friend likes it and I do not! Happily, it is also from her flight, as one sip is plenty for me.

  1. Inner Glow 8%

Although I’m not sure I agree with the menu’s description of this as “decadent,” I can certainly taste the coffee mixed with golden stout. However, they also say cocoa is involved, and I don’t taste that at all. This is a sit-in-a-pub and sip stout, and goes down easily. The coffee flavor is not super intense.

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  1. Fork and Beans 5%

On the other hand, this has robust espresso coffee flavor, and is made with NoFoRoCo coffee. It has an aroma of roasting coffee as well. You could have a glass of this and a glass of the Respect to Process and call it breakfast, I joke—coffee and grapefruit juice. It is tasty, but our friend thinks it could have more body to it. True, it is not a real heavy stout. Our friend says she likes a brewery where there are a couple of reliably good beers you can get any time, and I tell her the Harbor Ale and Black Duck Porter, both often available in local markets, are both good choices.

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I like the art they commissioned for their labels.

Reasons to visit: lots of good beers; a roomy space (formerly a car dealership) which nonetheless can be very full on busy days; of the ones I tried today, my favorites were the Hot Sauce IPA (definitely not for everyone), the Inner Glow Stout, and the Fork & Beans Stout; big, hot, soft pretzels served with cheddar sauce and mustard; a menu of “real” foods if you want lunch.

Peconic Cellar Door:  New Kids on the Block         October 20, 2017

Peconic Cellar Door:  New Kids on the Block

https://www.peconiccellardoor.com/

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If you like the idea of chatting with a pair of passionately committed winemakers, Peconic Cellar Door is the place for you.  Alie Shaper and Robin Epperson-McCarthy are the women who own, run, and make the wines for the labels As If, Brooklyn Oenology, and Saltbird Cellars.  They are the ones behind the bar in their small, white-washed space on Peconic Lane (adjacent to Anthony Nappa’s Winemaker’s Studio), where they will happily talk to you as much as you like about their wines—or give you space to sip and discuss with each other.

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The menu is rather extensive, but not all the wines are available for tasting or by the glass.

And there was much to talk about, as we learned their ideas about wine-making, why certain wines have the names they do, and their past experiences in wineries.  We mostly talked to Robin, who, despite her youthful appearance, has spent many years traveling around the world, learning about wine-making techniques from New Zealand to California, and more.  Her label is Saltbird, and as a native North Forker she is certainly familiar with salt air and local birds!  Then Alie chimed in as we asked about her wines.  She is the founder of Brooklyn Oenology (founded in Brooklyn, and abbreviated BOE), whose beautiful labels sport removable reproductions of works of art by Brooklyn artists.  She also makes the As If wines, which are named Serendipity, Persistence, and Courage—some of the qualities she needed to make them.

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Their space is small, so they request no large groups.

The entire menu of wines includes about twenty-three choices, most of which are available for tastes at $3-$4 per generous taste.  However, they also offer a set menu of four tastes for $14, which they said would change periodically, “So you can come back and have a different experience…and so we don’t get bored.”  Most, but not all, of the wines are also available by the glass.  If you want a bottle to consume on the premises, they charge a $10 service fee.   (Also, they request that you not bring outside food, as they will soon have their own snack menu, and they also request no pets.)

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We opted for the Feature Flight, and then, since it was all whites, added three reds at Robin’s recommendation. So the first four are from the flight—and very good choices they were.

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  1. 2015 Saltbird Chardonnay         $20

We tend to like steel-fermented chardonnays, and this was no exception.  Robin informed us that it spends some time “on the lees,” which gives it more body and taste than your average chard.  I found the aroma sweet, with some notes of cut grass, while my husband scented Brussels sprouts.  “A seasonal smell,” he joked, as we are happily scanning the farm stands for the first sight of Brussels sprouts on the stem.  This is a tasty wine, dry, with some lemon but nice depth.  I think I could happily sip this with some brie or camembert.

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One of Brooklyn Oenology’s artistic labels.

  1. 2014 BOE Social Club White $17

Another winner, this blend of seven grapes—chardonnay, pinot gris, pinot blanc, vidal blanc, riesling, gewürztraminer, and viognier—is steel fermented and dry.  Lots of tart grapefruity taste, but also some sweetness underneath.  If I had to guess, I’d bet that chardonnay is the predominant grape.  Very drinkable, especially with a seafood chowder.  We buy a bottle.

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  1. 2014 As If Serendipity $35

This is a blend of chardonnay, viognier, and sauvignon blanc, which is aged in neutral French oak.  The aroma reminds me of something sticky, though I’m not sure what.  The taste is tart, like a green apple.  It’s very good, but I don’t think it is worth the price.

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Very orange orange wine! That’s Alie in the background.

  1. 2013 BOE Broken Land $30

Broken Land?  According to Alie, that is the actual meaning of the Dutch name for Brooklyn.  Who knew?  You could also say it is a wine that breaks with tradition, as this is an orange wine made from pinot gris and gewürztraminer.  As Alie explains to us, orange wines are made by leaving white wine grapes to ferment with the skins (which are otherwise usually removed), and the particular grapes she chose have multi-colored skins, lending her wine a deep orange color.  It would be a great wine to serve at a Halloween party, especially if you’re serving Chinese food, as I think the flavors of lychee, ginger root, and other fruits would complement that.  The aroma reminds me of tangerines.

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It might be fun to buy the Motley Cru for a Motley Crue fan.

  1. 2012 BOE Motley Cru $35

Now we are done with the set flight, and we are given a fresh glass to try the reds, choosing some which happen to be open and on the counter.  The name entails another discussion, as it is not inspired by the rock group Motley Crüe!  Alie explains that it is made from a motley assortment of grapes—50% cabernet sauvignon, 28% malbec, 9%syrah, 8% petit verdot, and 5% corot noir—and then she added cru as a pun on the wine term.  The corot noir, by the way, is a new cold tolerant hybrid made by Cornell.  This is a fairly light red, with a pleasant aroma and soft tannins.  Not much fruit.  This would be a good wine to get if you have a group of people with varying entrees, as it could go with almost anything, from chicken to lamb, or even fish.

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Another really pretty label

  1. BOE Haywater Cove Merlot $18

Although this is a merlot, it has very little cherry flavor or aroma.  Robin agrees, and suggests it has more of a blueberry/bramble flavor, and we think she is right. This is a pleasant red, dry, with soft tannins.  The label tells us that Haywater Cove is an actual location on the North Fork, where “three creeks meet at the mouth of Cutchogue Harbor.”

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As If refers to Alie’s initials and also her approach to wine making.

  1. 2014 As If Persistence $40

Yum.  A blend of 60% cabernet franc, 25% petit verdot, and 15% cabernet sauvignon, this has a delicious fruity aroma and lots of dark fruit tastes.  For some reason, my tasting buddy says it is “like a new pillow.”  Okay.  Definitely a wine one could sit and sip, it would also go well with food.  I like it the best of the reds.

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This time of year they are open Friday through Monday only. It might be a good idea to call or check their web page before you go.

Reasons to visit:  a chance to chat with two charming and interesting winemakers; you want to try some new wines; some of the prettiest and most interesting labels around; the Saltbird Chardonnay, the Social Club White, the Broken Land orange wine, the As If Persistence red; they are right next door to the Winemaker’s Studio, so you can go to two tastings without driving (and Sannino Bella Vita is just a mile or so up the street, plus Greenport Harbor Brewing is just a little further at the corner). 

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